-see part I The authors write: “Chick Cove Manor was an abandoned chicken farm before Renee and Lee Chewning transformed it into a restaurant. Although not formally trained, Renee had learned the basics of cooking as a child. ‘And I always enjoyed eating,’ she says. ‘I spent ten years in New York, most of it in restaurants. I entertained and read a lot, too. When you’re exposed to ideas,’ she says, ‘they spark ideas of your own.’ “Those ideas went far beyond the familiar fish fries and crab cakes served by other area restaurants. The Chewnings learned to smoke their own meats and fish, made rich pates, and baked breads and pastries in the restaurant’s kitchen. Veal, poultry, or fresh Chesapeake Bay shellfish were served with generous helpings of fresh vegetables from the garden. Chewnings planted a garden filled with herbs and salad greens behind the restaurant. And every dish, from crab meat strudel to luscious angel cake, became even more special when Renee’s sure hand seasoned it with a few fresh herbs. This small garden was just the beginning – Lee now runs an herb farm that produces nearly 30,000 herb plants each year. With no professional gardening experience to fall back on, he read prodigiously and made many calls to Sal Gilbertie, seeking the advice of this well-known Connecticut herb grower. ‘I learned through trial and error and through my mistakes,’ he recalls.” “Today, winters at Chick Cove are devoted to growing cuttings for the planting season. In the spring the farm sells herb plants, while during the summer, when the restaurant is at its busiest, cut herbs are sold. Falls were quiet until the Chewnings decided to take advantage of the harvest with a line of herbal vinegars, salad dressings, and jellies. The tantalizing flavors of their lavender and ginger vinegars or fragrant rose geranium marmalades reflect Renee’s special talent for using herbs.” From Renee and Lee Chewning/Chick Cove Manor, VA in “Cooking with Herbs” by Emelie Tolley and Chris Mead. New York: Clarkson N. Potter, Inc., 1989. Pg. 100. Posted by Cathy Harned.
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